June 1 Yosemite Trip Report

Brad Lipovsky's picture

Angels to Oasis and Kor Beck  This weekend, a friend asked us to show Sergey, his climber friend visiting from Ukraine, around Yosemite. On Saturday we did Angels to Oasis, a 12 pitch slab climb that goes up Glacier Point Apron and ends at a beautiful tree-filled ledge at the base of the GPA headwall. We also tried working in some jamming practice on classic Yosemite hand cracks. On Sunday we did Kor-Beck, which was a great intro to the variety of crack climbing found in the Valley.

Higher Cathedral Sprire and Central Pillar of Frenzy On Saturday Cuauh and Anthony climbed the classic regular route of the Higher Cathedral Spire which is supposed to be the first technical route in Yosemite Valley, first ascent in 1934. The climbing was spectacular, but the rock quality made the climb a bit spicy. The view from the top of the spire looking at El Cap and Middle Cathedral made it totally worth it though. On Sunday we climbed the Central Pillar of Frenzy on the Middle Cathedral Rock which is an amazing climb.

East Buttress of El Cap was climbed by Justin and Brad in a long day.  The climb was great, especially the exposed arete pitch and the airy face climbing up high.  On Sunday we trail ran to the top of Yosemite Falls.

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral was climbed in an even longer day.

Jimmy and Matthew climbed Snake Dike with friends Kevin and Myles. They left Stanford at 3:45 AM and got hiking at 8:15 AM. After getting stuck behind 4 slow teams at the start of the climb, they made it to the summit of Half Dome at 6:00 PM. It was Jimmy's first time multipitch leading, and he was able to get rid of the vertigo feeling after his second 75' run-out! They made it back to the parking lot at 9:00 PM, got some well deserved pizza, and drove back home that night.

Jam Crack, Munginella, After 7, and Generator Crack TR Julia, Misha, Andy and Thomas. We started our weekend with Jam Crack and toproped the finger cracks at the first pitch. Munginella was a great end of the day after some wating in line. The second day we got on After 7 had a great time at the awesome second belay station, which we felt was the perfect model for a belay station, every climb should have one of these. A great horn to sling, nice gear next to it, a comfortable rock to sit on and awesome views. We finished the day with some toproping at Generator Crack and swimming in the river. An awesome trip, we had a great time!

North Dome and Central Pillar Blake and Donny had a super fun and mosquito-filled bushwhack down to and back up from North Dome on Saturday. Muddy cracks, late start, snot-slick rock, and route-finding difficulties made us back off the South Face. On Sunday, we got up early and were the first party on Central Pillar of Frenzy. Had an awesome time romping up the spectacular cracks, and got to watch Anthony and Cuauh coming up behind us. Blake went home Sunday night, and I crashed with a friend in the Valley. Got up in the morning and got a couple good solo TR laps in on Conductor Crack before heading home. Awesome seeing so many familiar faces this weekend!

Last modified Tue, 4 Jun, 2013 at 13:57