The ultimate reason for forming the Stanford Alpine Club is to help foster
climbing relationships and give people the opportunity to get outdoors as
much as possible. As a result, we are constantly planning new trips and
events for members to get to know each other and to get out and explore
the mountains together. For liability reasons, all officially sponsored
club trips are limited to club members only; however the instructional
trips are meant for anyone in the Stanford community interested in learning
to climb.
In addition to the official club trips, there are also countless informal
trips (which are open to everyone) being planned all the time within the
group. Our weekly meetings
are the primary forum for planning such trips
so everyone is highly encouraged to come to them.
In the past, one such informal group heads up to Castle Rock on
Wednesday afternoons during Daylight Savings Time to hang out,
boulder, and just enjoy the outdoors.
In Summer 2005-07, this was a Wednesday evening trip to Handley
Rock for toproping instead.
(Rain in the previous 3 days cancels). Note: Daylight Savings Time
ends on October 31, so don't expect any Wednesday afternoon bouldering
trip until DST resumes in the spring.
Detailed SAC Rock Classes Curriculum
requirements for all instructional trips rev. 10/18/05, MS Word format
Beginning Class
Anchors I - Rocks, Trees, Bolts
Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following (MS Word)
(plain text)
Trad Lead rev. 10/18/05
Curriculum for all 4 rock classes
(combined PDF, 4/2004)
Instructors for SAC Classes
Would you like to be an instructor in a SAC Class?
Here's what you need to do:
Fill out the regular
SAC survey
(if you haven't already), so
we have a general idea of your climbing experience and interests.
Check the instructor
qualifications for the trip(s) you'd like to help with.
Fill out the
SAC Instructors survey which has
a couple of more detailed questions on experience - (estimated)
number of anchors set, comfortable leading level, etc.
Send an email to the trip leader or the SAC president to
indicate your interest. At a more personal level, we are not
just into forms and surveys, but we want to have actually climbed
with you. So if the current instructors/trip leaders don't already
know you from informal trips or past classes, we will set up an
informal trip to meet you.
Check out the
Recommended Skills List for SAC Instructors.
These are not actually required or tested,
but they are a useful list of skills which most instructors should have.
Currently scheduled classes
Class details are announced by email on the climbing email list
(see the Membership page).
You do not have to be a SAC member to take a class, but entry fee
is discounted, and you can join at any time.
If details have not been announced yet, check the Past classes section
to see how the class was donen in previous years.
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2) - October 10-11, 2009
trip leaders: Dave Cameron, Dave Johnson
instructors: Ian Post, Sam Chang
- Anchors I - Toproping anchors (trees, rocks, bolts) -
October 17 or 18, 2009
trip leader: Jim Castelaz
instructors: Jon Denby, Linnea Williams, Matt Jennings
- Intro to Outdoor Climbing, at Ring Mountain - October 24, 2009
trip leader: Blase
instructors: Steve Hibbs, Caitlin Brown, Matt Jennings,
Pat Flaherty, Jason Wagoner
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2) - October 24-25, 2009
trip leader: Alex Nees
instructors: Chris McGuiness, Clint Cummins, Warren Caldwell
- Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following - November 7-8, 2009
trip leader: Chris McGuiness
instructors: Sharon West, Wei Wu, Martin Nagel, Clint Cummins
- Beginner's Trip - November 14-15, 2009
trip leader: Dave Cameron
instructors: Sam Chang, Matt Norcia, Orion, Matt Jennings
Past classes (likely to be taught again)
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2) - May 16-17, 2009
trip leader: Alex Nees
- Intro to Outdoor Climbing, at Turtle Rock - May 16, 2009
trip leaders: Steve Hibbs, Jon Denby, Matt Jennings
logistics: Blase
see Blase's email
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2) - May 9-10, 2009
classroom session: April 30, 7-9pm
trip leader: Dave Johnson
see Dave's email
- Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following - April 18-19, 2009
trip leader: Dave Cameron
- Anchors I - Toproping anchors (trees, rocks, bolts) - April 5, 2009
trip leader: Jon Denby
- Avalanche Awareness AIARE Level 1 - mid-February or mid-March, 2009
instructors: Mountain Adventure Seminars, Bear Valley
see Adrianne's email
- Intro rock climbing trip, at Castle Rock - February 28, 2009
instructors: Blase, Clint, Martin (Cancelled due to rain)
- SAC/OEP BackCountry Workshop - Mountaineering 1 - February 28 - March 1, 2009
instructors: Chris C, Paul, Dave J, et al
- Introduction to Telemark Skiing - February 7-8, 2009
instructors: Alexis, Jesse
- Crevasse Rescue - February 5,6, 2009
instructors: Paul, Sam, Ian, Warren
classroom session: February 5
outdoor practice session: February 6
see Paul's email
- Intro rock climbing trip, at Ring Mountain - November 15, 2008
instructors: Blase, Wong, Matt Y
- Learning to Sport Lead - November 2, 2008
instructors: leaders: Blase, Linnea, Peter, Orion, Brian
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2) - November 1-2, 2008
instructors: Ken, Paul, Ian, Clint, Chris, Warren
- Intro rock climbing trip, at Castle Rock - October 18 or 19, 2008
instructors: Blase, Linnea, Peter, James, Matt, Orion
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2) - October 18-19, 2008
instructors: Ian, Clint, Chris, Warren, Paul, Jim, Alex
- Anchors 2a - Gear anchors (cams, nuts) - October 12, 2008
trip leader: Paul
this class will not include the "multipitch following" which is
normally part of our Anchors II class
Chris's email
- Anchors I - Toproping anchors (trees, rocks, bolts) - October 11, 2008
instructors: Linnea, Matt, Martin, Irina, Alexis, Orion, Brian
Chris's email
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 2 of 2) - May 17-18, 2008
trip leader: Bjorn
instructors: Jared, Nathan
- Snow and Ice anchors for Mountaineering - May 10-11, 2008
trip leaders: Warren, Paul
- Trad Lead Workshop (part 1 of 2) - May 3-4, 2008
trip leader: Chris McG
instructors: Paul, Clint
- Bouldering - April 26, 2008
trip leaders: Blase, Will
- Self Rescue - April 22, 2008
prusiking and ascender practice, at Handley Rock
trip leader: Clint
- Intro to Mountaineering - April 19-20, 2008
trip leaders: Warren, Paul
- Learning to Sport Lead - April 19, 2008
trip leaders: Blase, Linnea
- Anchors I - Toproping - April 5 or 6, 2008
trip leader: Nathan Bronson
- Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following - November 10-11, 2007
Classroom Session - November 8 - open to all
trip leader: Chris McGuiness
instructors: Sharon, Björn, Brent, Sam, Clint
- Anchors I - Rocks, Trees, Bolts - October 20, 2007
trip leader: Warren
instructors: Sharon, Björn
- Intro rock climbing class, at Pinnacles - October 13, 2007
trip leader: Linnea
instructors: Clint, Brent, Adrian
Linnea's email
photos
- Intro rock climbing trip, at Castle Rock - October 7, 2007
trip leader: Eu-Jin
instructors: Blase, Linus, Paul
Eu-Jin's email
- Basic Mountaineering climb - May 19-20?, 2007
trip leader: Leor Pantilat
A climb with a steep snow slope, so people can learn or refresh
basic skills such as self-arrest, snow anchors and belays.
- Lead Climbing - April 21-22, May 5-6, 2007
trip leaders: Jared Brown, Chris Chan
Jared's email
- Intro to telemarking - March 10-11, 2007
classroom session: February 15
trip leaders: Ann + Erik
Ann's email
- Intro to Mountaineering - March 3-4, 2007
classroom sessions: February 22, March 1
trip leaders: Warren Caldwell, Eu-Jin Goh, Paul Csonka
Warren's email
- Intro rock climbing class, at Castle Rock - February 3, 2007
trip leader: Linnea
instructors: Björn, Clint, Kent
Linnea's email
Rain cancelled the original Jan 27 trip.
- Crevasse Rescue - January 27, 2007
classroom session - January 25, 7-9pm, location TBA
trip leader: Warren Caldwell
Warren's email
- Intro to Avalanche Safety - [CANCELLED - was January 20-21, 2006]
classroom session - [CANCELLED - was January 17, 6pm, location TBA]
We need to find a new trip leader, since Mike had to return earlier
than planned to Alaska.
- Intro to cross-country skiing - January 13-14, 2007
classroom session - January 9, 7-9pm, Clark Center S360
trip leaders: Ann + Erik
Ann's email (updated January 7)
- Anchors I - Rocks, Trees, Bolts - October 28, 2006
instructors: Darko Sarenac, Sam Chang
Darko's email
- Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following - October 21-22, 2006
Classroom Session - October 19 - open to all
outline of 2005 talk
trip leader: Darko Sarenac
instructors: Matt, Jared, Clint
Darko's email
- Intro trip - October 14, 2006
Belay Skills Session at Climbing Wall - October 13, 6:30pm
trip leader: Sharon Houck
instructors: Linnea Williams, Erika, Michele, Clint
Sharon's email
- Intro trip - May 21, 2006
trip leader: Björn Flatt
- Anchors I - Rocks, Trees, Bolts - May 20, 2006
trip leader: Niloy Mitra
- Lead Climbing - April 29-30, May 13-14, 2006
trip leaders: Matt Farrell, Chris Chan
- Intro trip - April 8 or 9, 2006
trip leader: Chris Chan
details and updates
- Self Rescue - at the Stanford Climbing Wall
trip leader: Bryan Palmintier
- Telemarking - February 25-26, 2006
classroom session - February 23, 7-9pm
trip leader: Marshall Burke
Marshall's email
- Avalanche Safety - January 28-29, 2006
- Anchors II - Gear Anchors and Trad Following - November 12-13, 2005
Classroom Session - November 10 - open to all
detailed outline of talk  
trip leader: Clint Cummins
instructors: John, Sam, Darko
Clint's email
trip report + photos
- Beginning Class - October 29, 2005
trip leader: Arthur Rallu
- Beginning Class - October 23, 2005
trip leader: John Montgomery-Brown
- Anchors I - Rocks, Trees, Bolts - October 22, 2005
trip leader: Niloy Mitra
instructors: Chuck, Jared, Kali
handout
- Lead Climbing - May 7-8, May 21-22, 2005
trip leader: Dave Weaver
- Mountaineering - April 9-10, April 22-24, 2005
trip leader: Chuck Booten
- Intro trip - April 17 (Sunday)
trip leader: Niloy Mitra
- Anchors I - April 16-17
trip leader: Joe Cackler
- Wilderness First Aid - April 2-3 (16 hours, Medical School)
cost: $78
details
- Telemark skiing - March 3 (classroom), March 5-6 (Kirkwood), 2005
trip leader: Dave Weaver
cost: $15 SAC members, $30 nonmembers
details
avalance safety classroom session (free)
- Lead Climbing
Back Country Workshop April 15,17-18, April 29, May 1-2, 2004
email on the 2004 class
photos
- Intro
Climbing Trip May 14 (gym), May 16 (Castle Rock), 2004
- Passive
Anchors Class May 15-16, 2004
email on this 2004 class
- October 17, 2004 - Anchors I - Castle Rock
trip leader: Ross Fleischman
cost: $15 SAC members, $25 nonmembers
details
- October 23-24, 2004 - Anchors II
"Intro to multipitch following" - Yosemite Valley
trip leader: Dave Weaver
cost: $30 members, $45 nonmembers
details
classroom session outline
photos
- October 30, 2004 - Intro Climbing - Castle Rock
trip leader: Mark Pauly
cost: $10 members, $15 nonmembers
details
photos
- November 16 or 17, 2004 - Avalanche Beacon Class (classroom only)
trip leader: Ross Fleischman
cost: $2 SAC members, $5 nonmembers, free if you bring a transceiver
details
- Beginner
Instructional Trip
roster / skill checkoff spreadsheet
(2004, Excel format)
General instructional materials
-
Staying Alive by John Dill, Yosemite Search and Rescue
-
Critical issues for a new leader by Richard Goldstone
-
Recommended Books from Lead Climbing Workshop
-
The physics of falling (PowerPoint format), by Andrew Chang
-
Sequential Failure in Lead Climbing Falls research into this -
the rope recovers between protection failures, and it is important to
retie your knot
-
Hall of Horrors accident reports from Arizona (including fatalities)
-
Active Pro size comparison chart by Alexander Cooper
-
Passive Pro size comparison chart by Alexander Cooper
-
Tape Gloves for jamming - palm free version by Alexander Cooper
-
Knots, Belaying, Anchors, Self-Rescue instruction
on E.C. Joe's Vertical Logistics site
-
a scientific study of Friction Knots
by Ron Farmer. He studied releasable knots for rappel backup,
and found the Autoblock with 6mm cord and 6 turns was the best choice
for a variety of rope diameters.
  local copy (in case the article
disappears from rockclimbing.com)
-
diagrams and text on pitons and copperheads
-
Avalanche Awareness Series by the Canadian Avalanche Center and MEC
Online Avalanche Training, basic articles, 5 Skills Development articles
by experts, 4 Making Decisions articles by experts
-
Building and Maintaining Fitness for Outdoor Athletes includes
four week training program, by Saul Jimenez