Hightlights from Fred Beckey's 70+ years of climbing adventures and first ascents. Mt. McKinley, Mt. Hunter, Mt. Deborah, Mt. Waddington, the Canadian Rockies, The Bugaboos, Cascade Range, Sierra Nevada, Wind River Range, Desert Towers, Mexico and more...
This is Fred's promotional book tour for Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs, but apparently the book has been delayed slightly and won't be ready until January.
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/fred-beckeys-100-favorite-north-american-climbs?p=BK570-0-000
When: Monday December 5, 7:30pm
Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions

Come join Mike Libecki as he takes us on a ride to find mystery, flora, fauna, culture and unclimbed rock walls around the world, to places like Antarctica, Afghanistan, Baffin Island, China, Greenland, and Venezuela. Expect the unknown, laughter and inspiration to stop making excuses. The time is now...What are you waiting for? No excuses.Dream big...And climb those dreams. After all, it is not only life, but the quality of this life. Death and/or old age is coming...We must live sweet. Why ration passion? -Libecki
Mike is also bringing a ton of goodies from Mountain Hardware for a raffle.
http://mikelibecki.com/about.html
When: Monday November 7, 7:30pm
Location: Clark Center s360 map and directions

This summer, I was able to turn childhood dreams into reality. I had an unbelievable opportunity to travel: first to Mongolia for research, and then to join an expedition if I could just work up the courage to buy the ticket. After four weeks of travel in Asia, I arrived in Almaty, Kazakhstan to climb Khan Tengri (23,000') in the Kazakh/Kyrgyz central Tien Shan. The next three and a half weeks were filled with all the drama and adventure a big mountain expedition could offer. I spent much of the trip wide-eyed, just soaking in the richness of the experience. But by the end, I had adjusted to the realities of expedition life: from the close friendships and eccentric personalities around camp, to the spectacular climbing, the heavy pack, and an exhilarating sense of isolation in the high alpine.
When: Monday October 24, 7:30pm
Where: Clark Center S360   map and directions

Welcome back to Stanford. The weekly slideshows are starting next Monday. Be prepared, this quarter should be full of interesting presentation: cool adventures from our members, field trips, local knowledge, Powderwhores, Fred Beckey, Mike Libecki and much more... stay tuned!
Last winter, I was dreaming of skiing the Ford-Stettner couloir on the Grand Teton. But dreams are only dreams until you make a plan, so I made a list of ski descents of increasing difficulty that would get me ready! Although the Ford-Stettner never happened, the journey was pretty nice and got me to ski a bunch of long, steep and beautiful California classics. This slideshow will present my preparation for that project, along with pictures and stories from skiing Red Slate Couloir, Bloody Couloir, the Cross Couloir on Tallac, U-Notch and V-Notch in the Palissades, the steep South Face of Split, the St-Jean Couloir on Split, the Y-Couloir on Leavitt Peak, the North Couloir of Emerson, Kindergarden Chute, Dana Couloir, Third Pillar Couloir, Chute Out in Ellery Bowl and attempting a day of 10,000ft on Shasta! Lot of long approaches before facing sweet sustained lines at 40-55deg. The usual warning also prevails, it will include nudity and a strong Quebecois accent!
When: Monday October 10, 7:30pm
Where: Clark Center S360   map and directions

Stanford Alpine Club and the Chris Chan Memorial Fund present:
Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Showing highlights from 25 years of desert tower climbing adventures on the Colorado Plateau.
Show is a fundraiser for American Safe Climbing Association: Admission is free, but donations to help ASCA are welcome!
Book signing to follow. Help celebrate the recent release of Crusher’s new book, DESERT TOWERS. This book details the first ascents of John Otto, through David Brower, Mark Powell, Layton Kor, Harvey Carter, Bill Forrest, Charlie Fowler and many more; up to the recent free-climbing exploits of Rob Pizem, Greg Child and Stevie Haston.
See deserttowersbook.com
When: Monday April 4, 7:30pm
Where: Clark Center S360   map and directions

Last month Kate Rutherford and Jasmin Caton climbed 1,500 meters in the Tasermiut Fiord in Greenland, and one was miserable.... Come hear funny climbing stories and see stellar photos from Kate's last few trips from free climbing the Freerider to the Venezuelan jungle, and Greenland.
When: Monday October 11, 7:30pm
Where: Clark Center Auditorium (Basement) (not in S360)   Clark Auditorium and parking map
For more details and the complete slideshow schedule, see the SAC Calendar.

See the Calendar page for upcoming events.

Sadly, Chris Chan passed away on July 9, in a climbing accident in Tuolumne Meadows. She was a friend to many in the club, and twice president of SAC.
A public memorial page has been created on facebook where you can share your thoughts and photos of life with Chris. In Memory of Chris Chan
Please join us for her memorial service:
Sunday, July 18, 1-3pm
Stanford Memorial Church
Reception following at Old Union Courtyard

See the Calendar page for more info.

See the Calendar page for more info.

Colin Haley presents the first traverse of Patagonia's Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre, climbed with Rolando Garibotti after decades of attempts.
When: Monday October 5, 7:30pm
Where: Clark S360   map/directions

See the Calendar page for upcoming events.

Former SAC President Chris Chan soloed Zodiac in August, and then The Shield in September (over 9 days). Note: soloing El Cap means climbing it without a partner - you belay yourself with the rope, and haul all your gear, food and water yourself.

That's right... legendary alpine hardman Steve House is coming to town.
Just a few of his credentials:

Piolet d'Or Award for his ascent with Vince Anderson of the Rupal Face (4100m) on Nanga Parbat   http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/nangaParbat.html

60 hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali with Mark Twight and Scott Backes

solo ascent of K7 via a new line, for the mountain's second ascent

new lines on Mt. Robson and Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies
Check it out!
When: Monday September 14, 6:30pm
Where: Patagonia store, 525 Alma Street, Palo Alto   google map

Icebergs, icebergs, icebergs! Come join Yosemite Mountaineering School climbing guide Josh Helling for an evening multi media presentation on 1st ascent big wall climbing in Greenland. During July/August 2008 Josh Helling & his climbing partner Mike Libecki hitched a ride on a small fishing boat & took a 500 mile journey along the East Coast of Greenland in search of remote, untouched big wall climbing. They followed the edge of the Greenlandic Ice Cap as it dumped wildly sculpted icebergs into the chilly sea. Along the way viewed abundant wildlife while bumping their way thru pack ice until navigating deep into the back of Skjoldungen fjord. There, the two man team found what they were looking for; hanging glaciers, alpine peaks, beautiful walls of granite & a welcoming windstorm that destroyed their base camp the day they set foot on land. A fun arm chair adventure awaits the viewer as they are taken up a 2,000 foot 1st ascent with finger cracks, offwidths squeeze chimneys, & some thin hammer & piton aid climbing. The colorful imagery & story telling will appeal to anyone who appreciates living on planet earth, so don't miss out on good times with good people.
When: Monday May 18, 7:30pm
Where: Clark S360   map/directions

We have reserved campsites in Yosemite Valley for every weekend April to August (except for the last 2 weekends in July), and there are several classes and informal trips planned. See the Calendar for details.

Yosemite legend Ron Kauk will be with us, talking about his recent and past climbs and projects.
When: Monday January 26, 7:30pm
Where: Clark S360   map/directions

Free show. Donations for Sierra Avalanche Center accepted.
Location: Patagonia store, 525 Alma Street, Palo Alto
Thursday, November 6, 8pm.
Preview at http://www.powderwhore.com/ThePactTrailerMedWeb.mov

La Sportiva and Mountain Hardwear athlete Micah Dash will be with us on Monday October 27, talking about his ascent of the Shafat Fortress in India's Zanskar range from August 8-11 (Colorado Route, VI 5.11 M6 A1, 21 pitches, 1100m). The presentation also includes hard free-climbing in Indian Creek. Utah, and big wall free-climbing in Yosemite Valley. It should be incredible... For a preview, see: Coppworks Blog .   full article Climbing magazine, January 2008
Where: Building 420, Room 040   campus map   road map
When: October 27th, 7:30 pm
Why: Oh come on, seriously, you need more?
Gear auction with prizes from Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear, PMI ropes, La Sportiva, Julbo sunglasses.

Monday, October 6th, 7:30pm, at Clark S360.
See the Calendar page for more details.

See the Calendar page for upcoming events.

We have reserved campsites in Yosemite Valley for every weekend in September and October! See the Calendar for details.

If you were too busy with schoolwork and missed Saul Jimenez's talk at the meeting on March 3, or if you weren't taking notes and wanted to read the detailed four week training program, here is the full text of his presentation.

Check out the PDF.
Order online from Stanford eGroups.
$12.50 for SAC members, $14.99 for non-members, can pick up on campus or have it shipped.

Photos from the Girls Can Crank weekend are up on the trip reports page.

On March 15, 2007 at 7p, the Stanford Alpine Club and Outdoor Education Program are sponsoring a talk called "Living with Avalanches" by Jill Fredston. Fredston is one of North America's leading avalanche experts and has been involved in the majority of avalanche rescues over the past 20 years. For her book, Rowing to Latitude, she won the National Outdoor Book Award in 2002. Fredston has also authored the authoritative primer on avalanche hazards, Snow Sense: A Guide to Evaluating Snow Avalanche Hazard, and Snowstruck: In the Grip of Avalanches, which brings to life the forces of nature that can turn the mountains deadly. With her husband, Doug Fesler, she co-founded the Alaska Mountain Safety Center. Together, they have spent years rowing more than 25,000 miles in remote northern regions.

Event Details:
Title: "Living With Avalanches", Jill Fredston
Time and Date: March 15, 2007, 7p
Location: Building 420-040, Stanford University
map
Free and open to the public; donations at the door appreciated.

Photos from the Goat Rock Intro trip are up on the trip reports page.

Thanks to Jared's nice work, SAC has reserved 2-3 campsites in Yosemite Valley for most Saturday nights from mid-March to mid-May! Each campsite has room for 6 people and 2 cars. They are available to paid SAC members. A few will probably be used for the Lead Climbing Class, but most will be used for informal trips. We come up with some way to allocate them among members, but there will be plenty for everyone. So get in shape and plan to join us for a lot of climbing in The Valley this spring! See the Calendar for the exact dates, but to summarize, 2 sites for March 17 (just before exams), 3 sites for all April Saturday nights, 3 sites for May 5, and 2 sites for May 12!

See the Calendar.

Photos from the Anchors I Class are up on the trip reports page.

Photos from the Anchors II Class are up on the trip reports page.

Photos from the Intro trip are up on the trip reports page.

See the Calendar.

The SAC Intro Meeting for fall quarter was on Monday October 2rd, 7:30pm, in Clark Center 360. See the calendar for more details.
If you couldn't make it to the meeting, or if you missed it, you can check out / fill in our survey (low tech at present, but you can capture the text and email it to clint@stanford.edu ).
If you have filled in the survey, you can see the survey results (requires a password).

See the Calendar.

Justen Sjong presents an exciting multi-media Presentation on big wall free climbing. First ascents in the southern Arrigetch in the Alaskan, Brooks Range are described as well as El Capitan's new Free Muir. Justen will share strategy and insights for free climbing big walls.
Location: Building 320 (Geology corner), room 105. road map   campus map
full size poster 8MB

Louis Reichardt was one of three Americans to climb Nanda Devi via a difficult new route (NW Face to N Buttress) in 1976. Nanda Devi, first climbed in 1936 by a joint British-American expedtion, was the highest mountain climbed until 1950. The expedition was co-led by Ad Carter (who was on the 1936 climb) and Willi Unsoeld, who climbed the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 and whose daugher, Nanda Devi Unsoeld was named after the peak and was a climber on this expedition. Come and see the story and pictures of the 1976 climb which was not short on difficulty or tragedy.

See the Calendar.
Update: Avalanche Backcountry Workshop definite for January 28; open classroom session January 26.

Read the 1/22/2006 edition, or the 1/11/2006 edition, or the 10/6/05 or 9/23/05 editions.

Photos from the Anchors II Class are up on the trip reports page.

The SAC Intro Meeting for fall quarter was on Monday October 3rd, 8pm, on the second floor of Tressider. We announced the instructional trip schedule for fall quarter. See the calendar for more details.
If you couldn't make it to the meeting, or if you missed it, you can check out / fill in our survey (low tech at present, but you can capture the text and email it to clint@stanford.edu ).
If you have filled in the survey, you can see the survey results (requires a password).

Chuck and his partner Ryan left on May 13, bagged the summit and were flying out by June 3! It was a cool slideshow on Monday October 10th.

The Stanford Alpine Journal has been printed and is available for pickup from Niloy's office. See the journal details and pickup details.

Photos from the Leading Class are up on the trip reports page.

Photos from the Intro trip and Leading Class are up on the trip reports page.

Photos from the Carson Pass weekend are up on the trip reports page. Photos from Mt. Shasta and Handley Rock are also there now.

Hans Florine, noted speed climber presented a nice slideshow. He covered recent and past speed records on the Nose of El Capitan, Nose/Half Dome, and bagging all the legal California 14,000' peaks in 3.5 days! Thanks to everyone who helped make this show a success.
$5 suggested donation at the door.
road map campus map
At the slideshow, there were giveaways from our sponsors:

• SuperTopo
• Rock & Ice magazine
• Planet Granite
• The Touchstone gyms
• Twisters Rock gym

Dates have been set for several classes in April and May. See the classes page for the schedule; details to follow.

Photos from the Stanford Climbing Wall Comp are up on the trip reports page.

The Stanford Alpine Journal has been printed and will be distributed to members with current dues at our first meeting. (Please pay your dues - it cost $1400 to print the journal, which totally drained the treasury!). It is also available for sale, for $7. You can check out the Table of Contents to get rough idea of what is included in the 2002-2003 edition.
Submissions for the 2003-2004 edition are being sought now.