Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 09:38:35 -0800 From: Warren Caldwell To: alpine-club AT lists.stanford.edu, climbing AT lists.stanford.edu, redwood AT lists.stanford.edu, powderbound AT lists.stanford.edu Subject: Crevasse Rescue: on-campus clinic, January 27 At the end of this month, SAC will be offering a Crevasse Rescue clinic for novices and experts alike. Classroom session: Thursday Jan. 25 7-9 PM Location: TBA Outdoor practice session: Saturday Jan. 27 (moved to Sunday in case of rain) 2-5 PM Location: TBA (a field on campus) An optional third session, depending on interest, will take place at the climbing wall. We will practice ascending a rope using prussik loops, a feat ably demonstrated by 007 Roger Moore using his shoelaces in 'For Your Eyes Only.' DESCRIPTION Interested in climbing glaciated peaks? Looking to add glacier travel to your mountaineering activities? You need to know how to drag your partner out of a crevasse! We will start with an evening CLASSROOM SESSION geared towards those who have little or no previous experience with crevasse rescue, or those who may know a bit but want a refresher. The session will be focused around teaching how to build a 3:1 Z-pulley, but will also briefly cover necessary related topics, depending on your experience levels, such as how to set up and manage a rope team. (Note: this will not by itself be sufficient instruction for general mountaineering and glacier travel.) An outdoor PRACTICE SESSION will be held on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon on one of the fields on campus. Everyone will have the opportunity to build a functioning Z-pulley in a mock crevasse rescue. This will be the most important component of the class. It is easy to memorize the textbook procedure for crevasse rescue, only to falter in the field. I've seen it happen and I've been there myself. Don't let it happen to you when your partner is down a hole! Both sessions will be open to all experience levels, but EVERYONE with an interest in glacier travel is encouraged to attend the practice session. Even if you are already an expert, be honest - when was the last time you practiced a crevasse rescue? Don't get rusty, come refresh your skills! It will be worth a few hours of your time. ***Note: Attending this clinic will not be the last word in crevasse rescue preparation. FURTHER PRACTICE on snow will be essential. In particular, you will not be able to practice building snow anchors in this clinic. Make sure you and your partners have adequate experience before you venture out on a glacier! ABOUT THE INSTRUCTOR: I am from Seattle and am a first year grad student in Geophysics. I learned crevasse rescue as part of a glaciology program in which we spent 6 weeks living on the Juneau Icefield, Alaska. I learned crevasse rescue a second time last year as part of a climbing and mountaineering course taught by the Mountaineers organization in Seattle. ***Anyone interested in assisting me, please let me know. I would welcome your help and input. I hope you can join us! -- Warren Caldwell ****************************************************** GEAR that will be used by each person in the practice session: 1.) Harness 2.) Carabiners, two to four (non-locking) 3.) Pulley (The "CR Pulley" by SMC is recommended) 4.) Runners, two (one or both should be double-length (48"). Can be tied from bulk 1" webbing.) 5.) Prussik loops, three. Tied from 6mm static accessory cord. 1.5 feet for use in the Z-pulley, and ~2ft and ~3ft feet for ascending a rope. **** If you DO NOT HAVE some of these items, and don't want to buy them, you don't need to! I anticipate having enough gear for everyone to participate. (This means that if you HAVE biners, runners, and especially pulleys and prussik loops, please bring them!) If you are considering buying this equipment (and you should: items 2-5 should be around $30), let me know, and I'll send you an e-mail with specific details of what you need. We will tie our prussik loops during the classroom session, so it will be helpful to have made your purchases before then. Optional: If you are really psyched about this and want to get a head start, the book Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, 2nd ed., by Andy Selters is a good place to start. Chapter 17 of Freedom of the Hills, 7th ed., covers the same topics in less detail. ******************************************************** QUESTIONNAIRE: I hope to be able to accommodate everyone that wishes to attend, but please answer the following questionnaire to help me with scheduling, tailoring the material to your experience levels, and obtaining gear. DUE MIDNIGHT ON THURSDAY JAN. 18: 1.) Name: 2.) E-mail: 3.) Stanford affiliation and year: 4.) How much mountaineering training or experience have you had? Be brief. (e.g., "I put on crampons once," "I took a course but haven't been out yet," "I soloed Ham and Eggs on the Moose's Tooth") 5.) Have you had previous crevasse rescue training or experience? 5a.) If so, would you be willing to pair up with one or two novices during the practice session to show off your skills as you build your Z-pulley, and guide them along when they build theirs? 5b.) Do you intend to participate in all sessions, or only the practice session? 6.) Which (if any) of the 5 items of required gear do you currently have, and can bring to the practice session? 6a.) (OPTIONAL) Which items do you intend to buy? 6b.) (OPTIONAL) Which items will you need to borrow? (In particular, please let me know if you don't have a harness) 7.) Do you have any questions or concerns regarding: Scheduling? Your experience level? Gear? Anything else?